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La Libertad
 
The Moche and Chimú kingdoms  
 

Recent archeological findings show that the coast of the La Libertad department was home to ancient civilizations that in many respects were just an important as the Incas, Mayas or Aztecs. Most of their legacy is in the form of remarkable temples located only a few minutes from Trujillo, a city in northern Peru. This city, the department’s capital, is 45 minutes away from Lima by plane (560 km) and lies 209 km from Chiclayo, following the northern Pan-American highway. Average summer temperature is 24ºC and the weather is mild and sunny the rest of the year.

 

 

 

 

 
The Chan-Chan Citadel  
 

Spreading over more than 20 square kilometers, the world’s largest mud brick citadel was declared part of Mankind’s Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. From a pure functional viewpoint, it resembles more the Egyptian necropolis at Gizeh than the walled cities of Babylon.

Located almost at the city limits of Trujillo, Chan-Chan (or The Great Sun in the Mochica language) was the capital of the vast Chimú empire. Built between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it comprises palaces, residential quarters, cemeteries, gardens and platforms for religious performances surrounded by walls up to 13 meters high. Exquisite high reliefs sculpted with refined techniques depict geometric and animal patterns that evidence the unique artistry and complexity reached in the use of clay in Chan-Chan in association with the liturgy and customs of the dominant castes.

Located in the lower Moche valley, the Chan-Chan compound gradually expanded from an initial core in the Cayhuac citadel and the El Higo pyramid to eventually embrace a total of what seem to be 10 adjoining monumental citadels. Appearances, however, are deceiving. The high perimeter walls and the labyrinth of rooms around the main squares were in all likelihood built as palaces for the Chimor kings. After the death of each sovereign, the corpse was buried together with his harem and some members of his retinue inside the platform monument built behind his residence. The surviving members of the dead king’s household and other special attendants were charged with collecting tribute in kind and labor to keep the palace in good state of repair, thus ensuring the continuity of the posthumous cult to the dead monarch.

A total population of 26 400 residents has been estimated of which some 10 500 were handicrafts makers of both sexes. A vast network of irrigated farms and sunken field, as well as llama packs, ensured the uninterrupted supply of foodstuffs and raw materials. In Chan-Chan, like in the Egyptian necropolis, ample quarter for artisans and bureaucrats were located near the pyramids and funerary palaces to ensure the continuity of worship to the god-monarchs during hundreds and even thousands of years after their death.

 

 

 

Pakatnamú  
 
Sitting on a high plateau straddling the valley and the sea, Pakatnamú ranks among the most beautiful and largest of all Mochica, Lambayeque or Chimú sites.

Protected by two large walls and deep precipices, Pakatnamú spreads over 1,5 square kilometers. It reached its present configuration during the Lambayeque period, and although the purpose served by its architectural layout is not perfectly clear to modern eyes, plentiful evidence of complex rites, including human sacrifices, suggests researchers this was a large ceremonial center, in some way similar to the Pachacamac oracle in Peru’s central Coast.
« Archeology

 

 

 

Temple or huaca de los Reyes  
 
Upstream of the Moche river rises several temples that pre-dates Chan-Chan by more than 2 000 years. Huaca de los Reyes, a 200 Ha compound under the eight earth mound at the Caballo Muerto site, was built during the second millennium BC and required the labor equivalent of 350 000 man-days.

Probably one of the political and religious centers of the Cupisnique civilization, Huaca de los Reyes is well-known for its sculpted, carved pottery often mistaken for Chavín ceramic. Judging from its Carbon-14 dating, the Cupisnique style may have spread beyond the valley only after Huaca de los Reyes was abandoned.

In its final form, this group of three large platforms (each 160 by 120 meters at the basis and six meters high) located around a rectangular square is precisely aligned along the cardinal points.

On its summit six temples of stone and mud mortar were built. A fine stucco plaster covers the walls, square-shaped 1,50 meters wide columns and the rooftops of the arches opening to U-shaped atrium.

On the façade decorated with sculptured clay friezes, some well-preserved images clearly represent the heads of 12 mythical ancestors with mouths full of sharp jaguar fangs. Each of the complex head sculptures stands 2 meters tall is 1,80 meters deep.
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Huacas of the Sun and Moon  
 
The kingdom of Chimor can be traced back to the Moche –for the name of the valley- or Mochica, as these people are called in the pre-Hispanic language of the neighboring Lambayeque department. The Chimor spread between the second and eighth centuries AD along 700 km of between the valleys of Piura and Huarmey.

On the left bank of the Moche river, 8 km from the city of Trujillo, was located the main power center of the Mochica civilization, at the sol and Luna Huacas, as they are known today. The Sun Huaca- or temple- is the largest of all pre-Hispanic pyramids and compares by volume to the Egyptian pyramids at Saqqara. Its construction required some 143 million mud bricks. Unfortunately, a sizable part of this edification was destroyed by looters who in 1 602 cut the pyramid in two by making the river’s waters flow through its middle.

An impressive cross section left by the river waters shows the successive development stages of the pyramid, both outwards from the core and upwards from the basis. As other similar construction from pre-ceramic times, the Moche temples were subject to periodical renovations after their users had carefully covered with dirt the areas that were no longer in use.

To build the high platforms, they erected large rectangular molded-adobe columns reclining against each other. People from several groups must have contributed their labor as tax paid to the state to build the temple.

The pyramidal Cerro Blanco (White Mountain) is 500 meters away. At its foot stands the Huaca de la Luna or Moon Temple (95 x 85 x 25 meters) in sharp visual and ceremonial contrast to the Temple of the Sun. It comprises three independent ceremonial compounds, each possessing a system of restricted access ways, wallet courtyards and roofed halls. On the walls, polychrome paintings and high reliefs seem to have been made only yesterday. At present, most areas are protected with roofs and provided with walkways for visitors.

The temple’s external walls are decorated with high relief motifs of fanged deities, with hair made of monster snakes ending in heads of marine birds.

A Similar divinity guard the main entrance to the central complex, flanked on each side by a sliding viper crowned with a condor head.

Both characters appear again in the scenes painted on Moche ceremonial pottery to describe myths and ritual practices. One of the personages is represented as a fisherman wielding his power over the seas. The other one appears as living in the heart of the mountains. Usually depicted as an owl or a spider in the company of baths, this divinity stands for the night and the netherworld. The knife and the head, he holds in his hand, shows his third for human sacrifices. Some scenes show the sacrifice of victims pushed downhill to kill them in his honor.

Some private inner temple chambers to which access was restrictive were also decorated with mural paintings, the most renowned among which depicts some scenes from the myth about the “rebellion of things” where the warriors’ clothes and weapons rebelled against their masters, defeated them in combat and offered the prisoners’ blood to a supernatural couple: a male god with an owl face and a woman with braided snakes as hair. Often, the woman is seen drinking from the first quarter Moon while sailing the sea, thus leading weapons, and processions of prisoners decorated the walls along the ramp leading into the main building.

Between the two Huaca temples there is a flat area long believed to have been a square or a vacant lot. Excavations have revealed that the area is in fact full of constructions.

A whole city now hidden under the sand, it depended on the two temples for its livelihood. A broad avenue running parallel to the Moon temple channeled human traffic and divided the cult and the residential areas. Small squares with a single access point were surrounded by houses of several rooms. Next to them, the workshop produced religious paraphernalia, ceramics and metal objects. Its dimension and orderly layout give the ensemble a clear urban aspect.
« Archeology

 

 

 

 

The Temple at Pañamarca  
 
For decades, the images of fierce warriors led to believe that the Moche culture was built on a purely military foundation.

Results of recent research about Moche iconography have questioned this belief. Apparently, their religious cult and complex ceremonies revolved around the relatively peaceful relations among various ethnic groups who lived along the northern Coast. The complex power ideology, so characteristically represented in the rich Moche iconography, may even reflect the cohesiveness between one or several multiethnic Moche states.

As a matter of fact, the most important building on the Moche states’ southern frontier was not a fortress but the Pañamarca temple located in the Nepeña valley. There, a set of elevated boulders of whimsical shapes merges beautiful with the sugar cane fields. These rocks were considered sacred by the users of Moche pottery (second to seventh centuries AD) and so they decided to build two pyramids – one small and the added walled squares and more elevates rooms. The site is well known for its large-scale mural paintings illustrating myths and religious ceremonies.
« Archeology

 

 

 

 
The Huacas at Cao (El Brujo)  
 
Probably, the political and religious Mochica capital in the Chicama valley richer in water and farming land than the Moche area, was located in Cao where two pyramidal buildings sit on the shore facing each other. One, El Brujo -or The Sorcerer- stands out for the rich and well-preserved polychrome relief scenes that cover the façade.

On the wall surrounding the large square near the main building, images of dancing priests – wearing either a headpiece and crown that remind us of the feminine deity, or a frayed tee-shirt like male partner, the owl-spider divinity- are depicted together with the procession of naked prisoners tied with ropes around neck. A row of supernatural spiders decorates the top frieze of the façade.

On the north-west corner of the façade, a small roofed room stands on a low platform. Its outside walls, the vestibule’s walls and the ceiling were decorated with mythological scenes –mostly well-preserved- of ritual combats between groups of warriors.

A mythical deity attends these mythical representations against a nocturnal seascape. On a few ceremonial jugs, delicately drawn line-paintings narrate a sequence of rituals honoring the deity. Prisoners defeated in combat are taken on reed boats to the islands where they will be sacrificed by bleeding their jugular vein, an offering that the gods of the sea rewarded with plentiful fishing and sea lions for hunting. Possible these ceremonies took place totally or partially at the temple.

From the summit of the pyramid, the visitor will notice the difference between this and Egyptian or Maya pyramids. As in the Moon Huaca, the corridors and halls -some of which are covered by roofs resting on columns- follow each other at the top of the edification. Several are decorated with reliefs and painting of multiple colors.

In some areas, the scary god of the world below wields his ceremonial knife and severed head. In other areas, three-story high walls preserve their intact decoration where we frequently see the face with snake hair and pointed fags.

Like in the Moon Temple, whenever the Cao temple had to be rebuilt, additional funerary chambers were built. Probably, the reconstruction itself was related to the death of an important bureaucrat or priest.

Unfortunately, for some reason the chambers were opened and their occupants moved elsewhere. The ceramic vessels found there, some of which are of exceptionally high quality, can be seen at the Wiese Foundation Museum in Trujillo. Another exceptional piece found there is a carved wood column with a capital depicting a priest and two rampant felines facing him.

Despite the arguments for more sophisticated navigational arts, the pre-Hispanic iconography of the northern Peruvian Coast shows only one-man boats used in river travel, usually pulled by swimmers, as well as the reed rafts used for fishing near the shore.

A local reed variety known as totora (Schoenoplectus californicus ) is still used to build the peculiar one-man boats. After letting the reed dry for a month, it is woven into a sort of kayak. The rider kneels on the raft and rows out to the sea. Fishermen in the Pimentel district in Chiclayo are among the modern users of the ancient caballito de totora, or “totora reed horses” as they are called locally.

The Mochica also seem to have to used a sort of totora catamaran provided with a covered deck but with no sail. This vessel was large enough to carry prisoners and offerings to the site of the ceremonial sacrifice, usually a rocky island away from the shore.
« Archeology

 

 

 

 
The Galindo Pyramids  
 
Weather changes recorded in the expansion rings of high Andean glaciers show that the seventh and sixth centuries BC were hard times for the residents of the northern Coast.

The Moche culture knew very well to fend off the negative effects of droughts and catastrophic rains. Still, the political consequences of those phenomena must have been severe for the Moche rulers. Indeed, several clues point to sudden mass movements of population on the northern limits of the Moche area of cultural influence, both in the Highlands and on the Coast, announcing the emergence of a new cultural phenomenon: the Wari civilization. Quickly emerging new capitals, located in strategic places and equally distant from critical irrigation and defense locations seem to fit into this context. In the Moche valley, for instance, rulers made a decision to build a large settlement around imposing pyramids. Galindo, as the site is called, is surrounded by walls probably for defense purposes. Between the sixth an eighth centuries of our era, Galindo undoubtedly achieved a greater political weight than the Sun and Moon temples. The Moche finally yielded to external pressure towards the end of the eighth century AD.
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The Administrative Center at Viracochapampa  
 
To better understand the cultural identity of the Highlands invaders who contributed to the end the Mochica civilization, we must travel deep into the mountain region of La Libertad, to a compound located some 2,5 km from Huamachuco.

Viracochapampa is an architectural compound built to serve administrative functions in the Wari empire. Its size and design make it similar to Pikillaqta in Cusco and Azángaro in Ayacucho. Walls about 2 meters high divide the large (581 x 574 meters at the base) trapezoidal area into squares, open areas and courtyards of carefully planned architecture.

Typically, the courtyards are surrounded on three sides by covered archways while the fourth archway leads to a rectangular room with niches on the walls. There has been with niches on the walls. There have been many debates about the function of this layout. The similarity with Greek, Roman and Renaissance urban layout led to believe these were also cities of the same kind but recent excavations show that the sites had a very short permanent population, despite their large surface area. Instead, the planned modules probably functioned as warehouses and lodging areas for the visitors who arrived to pay their tribute either in kind or in labor (the so-called mita)

An imposing aqueduct, 800 meters long, 16 meters wide and from 6 to 10 meters high, is probably related to this remarkable administrative center. The waterway runs through the entire La Cuchilla flatlands, the granaries and circular warehouses at Amaro Mountain and the monumental mausoleum at Marca Huamchuco. Evidence found in the region points to an independent cultural development antedating the Wari occupation which does not seem to have been very long (600 to 800 BC), because Viracochapampa was never finished.

Although the ceramic and architectural findings leave no doubt about its relationship to Ayacucho, there is debated about the exact nature of this link. However, the prevalent opinion is that Viracochapampa was the provincial capital of an expansionist state with Wari, in Ayacucho, as its administrative center.

A religious system probably originating in Tiawanaku, on the shores of Lake Titicaca in Puno, may have been at the origin of the political doctrine upheld by the latter -often appearing in the kero vases and other fine ceremonial vessels- are characters with radiant headpieces followed by a retinue of bird-like attendants of Tiawanaku inspiration.
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Ceramic Portraits: Faces of the Mochica  
 
Amazing realism, expressiveness and varied and detailed facial features characterize the Mochica ceramic portrait vessels that are one of the most interesting and enigmatic aspects of Peruvian pre-Hispanic art.

Exact replicas of human faces appeared only late and exceptionally in art. The dramatic realism of Roman republican portraits was probably born from the custom by the deceased person’s relatives of wearing masks representing other dead relatives.

Made using a wax mold taken from the dead person’s body, the masks were subsequently kept in the family altar, thus may have been born the fashion of sculpting a truthful representation of human faces.

A different origin may explain the intricate balance between ideological representation and the unrepeatable naturalness of some Egyptian dignitary’s effigies originally kept in chambers destined to funerary cult.

They were principally meant to protect the shape of the body from decay and propitiate the return of the soul.

Due to their variety and expressiveness, Mochica representations stand at a par with the Roman figures and in number they equal Egyptian ones. We may wonder though about the identity of the characters immortalized by the ceramists. The list is long but definitely limited to the power elite.

Among the characters we can perfectly distinguish sick people suffering multiple skin lesion, women with the unmistakable braided hair, and corps almost down to their skeletons. The pot-makers also made reproductions of supernatural animals and other beings, including their divinities.

This peculiarity gives us a clue to try and unveil the likely reasons driving Mochica handicraft makers as well as explain the unexpected appearance of realism as away to depict the unique features of individual human faces.

Most of these presumed portraits represent males who performed ritual functions as attendants and priests. They delivered the victims’ blood to supernatural beings, carried rattles and banners, danced and took part in orgiastic heterosexual rites.

Contrary to conventional wisdom, effigies of dignitaries are infrequent and those that have been found correspond to supreme priests who preside over track competitions and other rituals from their comfortable seats at the top of the pyramids.

Birds, felines or tassels decorate their fine turbans. Rulers are distinguished from priests by their war clothes and the helmet-shaped headpiece.

Numerous portraits show characters with loose long or short hairstyles who may be sacrifice victims and executioners of bloody rituals, like in the bottles with the stirrup handle used as deposits for ceremonial liquids and blood in particular.

Then why to make portraits of individual sacrifice attendants and their victims? Apparently this ceramics were not actual individual portraits in the western sense of the word –although their makers were undoubtedly inspired by real faces- but were rather type faces.

The facial features, paintings, tattoos and details of the headpiece, earrings and nosering may have served to rank the person portrayed in the ceramic within a complex ethnic and political structure.

Mochica material culture and, in particular their icons, make us think of group of one or several multiethnic states sharing a common religious ideology. Ritual combats facing warriors from various ethnic groups or places, exhausting race competitions and human sacrifices served both as propitiation rites for the well-being of the community and for young people’s initiation.

Almost surely, the expressive faces on Mochica bottles were not meant to remember gone relatives or to honor their rules.

Rather, they were placed in tombs as a sign of the dead person’s fully –entitled membership in Mochica society and who therefore was expected to perform periodically the roles ascribed to him by reason of kinship and political function.
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