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Peru: a vast scenario
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Peru is a vast region where the traveler
will always find sunshine, the landscape he always dreamed
of, or the ideal spot to practice a wide variety of
adventure sports: rafting down raging rivers, mountain
biking through breath-taking landscapes, fishing in
emerald-green lakes or gliding amongst the condors.
Whether swimming in crystal-clear seas, trekking through
glaciers along ancient roads or through steamy jungle,
no matter what the season, the visitor will always find
some ideal spot to enjoy a unique and unforgettable
stay.
Because Peru lies near the Equator and is split in two
from North to South by the Andes, creating two major
watersheds, the Pacific and the Amazon, the country
is able to boast the greatest biodiversity on the planet.
Peru is also home to a wide range of climates and micro-climates
as well as to diverse geographic scenarios.
Winter drapes the central and southern coast in a thick
layer of clouds, the northern coastline is drenched
in brilliant sunshine, inviting visitors to flock to
the region's fabulous beaches and taste the superb local
cooking.
Travelers avid to explore mountains, peaks or thick
rainforest, will always find that either the highlands
or the Peruvian Amazon are ideal to enjoy a visit, since
the summer rainy season in one region will always coincide
with the dry, sunny season in the other.
The great thing about Peru, is that one can enter a
thousand countries without crossing a single border.
What is more, this scenario of pure nature and unique
landscapes blends together customs from a number of
different linguistic groups and cultures, whose past
steeped in history astounds locals and visitors alike.
This diversity has given life to one of the world's
richest gastronomies, and to a land of contrasts that
invites visitors to discover its essence. Peru awaits
you. |
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| Along the peruvian coastline |
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With the exception of the 52 rivers that
split the narrow sandy coastal strip on their way down
to the Pacific Ocean, the Peruvian coastline is an arid
desert that fringes the sea with sweeping beaches, hidden
coves, rocky cliffs and towering rock formations carved
out by the wind and waves. In some areas, armies of
sand dunes march down to the sea; in others, meanwhile,
the sun glitters on the saltflats in a world by the
sea that appears to be uninhabited. However, the landscape
gives way drastically and definitely to one of the richest
oceans to be found on Earth, a world teeming with life.
The Peruvian coastline offers lovers of the sea many
advantages: a stable climate that seldom sees rain,
no hurricanes and slight variations in temperature during
the daytime and throughout the year; beaches bathed
by cold waters and others that feature warm waters;
solitary beaches where dolphins and sea lions are the
lone companions of the visitor; waves so long-running
and perfectly shaped that they never seem to come to
an end; and, by combining the right time and place,
there's the chance to acquire that perfect tan or practice
water sports practically 365 days a year.
The Peruvian coastline offers water sports fans a wide
range of possibilities, or perhaps just go fishing,
try the local cuisine or take in the surroundings, ruffled
by a gentle sea breeze. We invite you to discover Peru's
beaches for yourself. |
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| Beaches |
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Peru has been doted by Nature with more
than 3,000 kilometers of coastline. Peru's beaches link
up, one after another, in an endless chain of natural
scenarios and physical characteristics that will delight
travelers from all walks of life: some are dusted with
pure white sand, blown in from distant sand dunes; others
are filled with thick grains of sand which do not stick
to the skin; some are made of dark sand, pebbles, covered
in mangroves or studded with prickly cacti; some are
lapped by tranquil seas, while others are pounded by
huge waves of staggering beauty. Some beaches have been
turned into modern ports or picturesque, sleepy fishing
villages. Others, meanwhile, have kept their pristine
beauty and the enchanted air with which Nature endowed
them thousands of years ago.
So come and explore the beaches of Peru. The Pan-American
Highway runs parallel to the coast, providing access
to all beaches. The northern stretch sets off from Lima
and runs up to Tumbes, on the Ecuadorian border, while
southwards the highway runs from Lima down to Tacna
on the Chilean frontier. The road is in excellent condition
from Trujillo to Tacna (some 1,900 km) and fairly good
from Trujillo to Tumbes (some 700 km). |
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| Peru's Top 10 Beaches |
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Punta Sal
Possibly the most heavenly beach on Peru's
north coast. The beach resort of Punta Sal or Punta
Sal Grande, as it is known locally, is one of the most
spell-binding beaches on the Peruvian coast, and enjoys
peace and sunshine all year round. There is excellent
fishing and diving to be found in its warm and clear
waters. Seafood lovers will appreciate the local shrimp,
lobsters and the finest fresh fish to be found up north.
Access and services: the beach is reached via a 2 km
detour off the North Pan-American Highway at kilometer
1,188. The area teems with hotels and restaurants that
throb with activity during the summer season. Apt for
all vehicles.
Máncora and Las Pocitas
Wedged into the Piura coastline, Máncora
has become the main hotspot for surfers each summer.
From December to March, the quiet streets of the village
burst into a non-stop party. Nearby, further south,
the area of Las Pocitas features a rocky beach where
low tide forms a series of natural rock pools which
are a favorite for swimmers. The fine sandy beaches
are lapped by clear, warm seas.
Access and services: Located at kilometer 1,164 of the
North Pan-American Highway, the area features several
hotels and restaurants. Apt for all vehicles.
Colán
The traditional summer resort for Piura residents.
Built in the 1950s in the style of the old coastal residences,
the village is known for its typical mansions with terraces
raised on wooden beams, shaded by decades-old palm trees.
The sea is clear and warm, while every evening provides
a fabulous sunset. Stingrays are common here, which
is why visitors are advised to enter the water dragging
their feet (a practical local solution).
Access and services: the beach is reached via a paved
detour off the Pan-American Highway north of Piura at
kilometer 989 headed for Paita. What better than to
try a ceviche (raw fish marinated in lemon juice) by
the sea together with traditional tamales (cornmash
pastries). Apt for all vehicles.
Bahía de Nonura
The beaches of Bayóvar are Peru's last virgin
beaches, and without a doubt, the most beautiful. Made
up of sweeping, open bays or white granite rocky outcrops
that spring out of the sand dunes, the beaches boast
an extraordinarily clear blue sea teeming with dolphins,
turtles and flocks of seagulls. Fishing here is superb,
and sundown will enchant even the most seasoned traveler.
Access and services: To enter the area, travelers will
have to drive down a detour off Kilometer 886 of the
North Pan-American Highway. The detour leads down to
Bayóvar and then along the coast. A special permit,
which is easy to get, must be obtained from state oil
firm Petroperu S.A. at company headquarters in Lima
or Piura. The wind picks up somewhat in the afternoons,
so travelers are advised to pick a sheltered area to
camp in. Apt only for 4WD vehicles.
Casma: Culebras, Corralones,
Tuquillo and La Gramita
Easy to reach, this part of the coast is split
into dozens of sheltered striking beaches, rocky cliffs
and islands. Some areas are sheltered from the wind,
with calm seas, good fishing and bright sunlight all
year round. In summer, campers flock to this area in
search of peace and quiet. Further north, lies the lagoon
of Playa Chica, a haven for a vast variety of wildlife.
The area can be windy in the afternoons.
Access and services: Wedged between the Las Salinas
saltflats of Huacho and the town of Huacho itself, the
area is reached by a detour from kilometer 135 of the
North Pan-American Highway. Apt for all vehicles.
El Paraíso
The peninsula and beaches of El Paraíso
(El Palmero, Tilca, Tocay and others) meet every requisite
to honor their Spanish name of Paradise: numerous beaches
where no human being treads, a calm and always clean
sea, good fishing and bright skies in summer. Campers
and holiday makers flock to Paraíso beaches in
summer looking for calm and a natural scenery of great
beauty. Nearby to the north the lagoon at Playa Chica
provides shelter to varied animal wildlife. Windy in
the afternoon.
Access and services: Located betwen Las Salinas and
Huacho, El Paraíso beaches can be reached off
a detour at kilometer 135 of the North Pan-American
Highway. Apt for all vehicles.
Chepeconde
Formerly called La Barca, the beach was discovered
by campers two decades ago. Since then, its popularity
has increased to the point where it has become one of
the most heavily visited campsites during the summer.
The fine sandy beach runs down to a superb, clear sea.
A series of natural rock towers split the beach into
three well-defined areas, of which the northernmost
one draws the biggest attention.
Paracas: La Mina, La Catedral
and Mendieta
Without a doubt, Paracas is blessed with the
most spectacular stretch of coast along the Peruvian
shoreline. The unique landscape features a salt-laden
desert that runs down to a deep blue sea through horseshoe-shaped
beaches, gigantic cliffs and rocky bluffs carved out
by the wind and waves. The National Reserve, which stretches
across 335,000 hectares, is one of the country's best
beach destinations, and ideal for activities such as
diving, fishing, windsurfing, surfing and photography.
Worth a visit are the Ballestas islands, a 1-3 hour
boatride depending on the craft. The area is also home
to huge flocks of guano birds and sea lion colonies,
and is a refuge for migratory birds and rare species
such as the Humboldt penguin and the marine wildcat.
Access and services: A paved road leads down to the
reserve and its beaches from the town of Pisco at kilometer
234 of the South Pan-American Highway. Once past the
guardpost, the road turns into a packed dirt track.
In the nearby resort of Paracas and El Chaco beach,
one can find hotels, restaurants and boats for hire.
Apt for all vehicles.
Jiway and Champeque
Jiway is a nice bay bereft of houses, ideal
for swimmers and fishermen. It boasts deep blue seas,
white sand and good fishing. Just like nearby beaches,
the area is riddled with pre-Hispanic archaeological
remains of great value. Visitors are recommended to
enter the unique Ayparipa citadel. To the north lies
the picture-pretty beach of Champeque.
Access and services: Located at kilometer 594 of the
North Pan-American Highway (La Libertad), the beach
can be reached via a dirt road which can at times be
somewhat covered in sand. Apt mainly for 4WD vehicles.
Puerto Inca
For many, Puerto Inca is the finest beach on
the south coast. Formed by two perfect bays, the area
looks down onto a clear, calm sea which is ideal for
children. There is excellent fishing and diving to be
found. The area known as Quebrada de la Huaca was one
of the sites that provided fresh fish for the Inca ruler
in Cuzco. Nearby, one can still find remains of the
Inca road system that linked the coast to the highlands,
as well as dozens of ancient storerooms and other pre-Columbian
stone constructions.
Access and services: The area can be reached via a 3
km dirt road that detours from the South Pan-American
Highway at kilometer 603 and runs down a narrow gully.
The beach features a small shelter for visitors. Apt
for all vehicles.
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| Other Eye-catching Beaches |
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In addition to the above, the coast features
thousands of beautiful beaches and special attractions,
whether for water sports lovers, fishermen or simply
visitors looking for somewhere to get some rest and
fresh air. The map in this section includes a selection
of around 30 of the country's best beaches, with information
on services, possibilities for the visitor and characteristics
of the sea.
We recommend using the map, especially when hunting
for beaches close to city areas or when looking to tour
groups of beaches near a certain area. |
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| Recommendations |
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Accessibility
Several of the beaches along the Peruvian coast lack
services for visitors, which for many is part of their
charm. So when visitors travel to unfamiliar beaches,
they should always bring enough food and water. Don't
forget sunblock and a light windbreaker for the afternoon
winds, as well as plastic bags for garbage.
Driving
Do not venture onto dirt or sand roads unless accompanied
or experienced in rough terrain driving. When driving
on sand, let out some air from the car tires to avoid
getting stuck in a rut.
Services
For those who are fond of their creature comforts, many
beaches, especially those located near the big cities,
feature restaurants and lodgings that are generally
open from December to March. Visitors should bear in
mind that these spots are packed with visitors during
national holidays, so make your bookings with anticipation.
Stingrays
On some beaches, such as Paracas bay and some further
north, swimmers risk being stung by stingrays, known
locally as pastelillo. In these spots, the best thing
to do is to enter the water dragging one's feet, which
frightens them away, or to use closed rubber sneakers.
If despite taking precautions you get stung, the best
thing is to wash the wound with plenty of soap and water,
and then bandage the spot. While the effect of the sting
varies according to the person and the size of the ray,
the local solution is usually the most effective: to
bury one's foot immediately in hot sand or suck the
poison from the wound.
Camping
Campers have a wide range of beaches to choose from.
Excursionists are recommended to always camp in groups,
especially when visiting remote or isolated beaches.
The hundreds of fishing villages are good spots to rent
boats and buy fresh fish and supplies, as well as for
repairing outboard motors. |
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| Surfing |
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Although few people are aware of this fact,
it was in ancient Peru, and not in Polynesia or the South
Sea Islands that the first evidence was found of men riding
the waves with the help of external aids, as found on
textiles and pottery dating back to pre-Hispanic civilizations.
This art, believed to date back at least 2,000 years in
Peru, is still practiced by fishermen in northern fishing
villages such as Huanchaco, Santa Rosa and Pimentel, where
fishermen venture out onto the waves on totora reed rafts
during their daily fishing trips.
The Maui surfboard made its debut on the Peruvian coast
in 1942. Since then, surfing has gathered enough fans
as to become one of the most widely practiced sports around.
The waves off the Peruvian coast are well-known all over
the world and some of the best breakers -such as Punta
Rocas south of Lima or Cabo Blanco to the north- are part
of the surfing world championship circuit.
Peru has ideal beaches that will satisfy the most demanding
surfer all year round: the central coast features constant
waves during winter (April to September), while the north
coast sees heavy seas (or "crecidas") between
October and March. At the same time, as there are only
12,000 surfers in Peru, compared to 700,000 in Brazil
for example, one can always find empty beaches and perfect
waves in Peru. All surfers have to do, is choose their
favorite point. |
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| Seven Top Spots* |
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* Depending on their shape and breaking
direction, waves are divided into normal or tubes, and
left and right, respectively.
Cabo Blanco
For many, this beach boasts Peru's best left-breaking
wave. It is a fast-moving, short wave (which makes a
quick take-off mandatory) that carries one of the country's
best tubes. It can rise to a four-meter-high wave, although
normally it ranges from three to four meters. It is
ideal between November and December. It can also be
a fairly dangerous wave as it breaks near a reef, a
risk which is accentuated by the sand dredging that
occurs when the tide rises. The frequency of the breakers
is directly linked to the swell that comes from the
north (sparked by the North Pole and which runs through
Hawaii).
Access: To reach Cabo Blanco, surfers have to take a
winding paved road that runs down from the town of El
Alto, located at kilometer 1,137 of the North Pan-American
Highway. Apt for all vehicles.
Bayóvar-Nonura
A showcase wave. Long, left-running and stretching
to a good height (up to 3 m), surfers compare it to
a train for its size and force. The entry to the point
needs a tough paddle out, with strong currents. The
waves generally reach their peak during the summer.
Access: The area can be reached via a detour off kilometer
886 of the North Pan-American Highway, a side road which
leads to the Bayóvar terminal and then heads
along the coast. Apt only for 4WD drive vehicles.
Chicama
The world's longest wave. It breaks down into
four sections known as the point, the cape, the man
and the pier. Each section is a wave in itself, with
its own character and speed. Surfers say that to surf
Chicama, one has to bring along a spare pair of legs.
A classic left-running Peruvian breaker, it swells with
the currents that run from the south and west and reaches
ideally some two meters in height.
Access: The cove -also known by the local name of Malabrigo-
is reached by a detour that runs down from kilometer
614 of the North Pan-American Highway. Apt for all vehicles.
La Herradura
The classic point for Lima surfers. On its
best days, the left-breaking waves can reach five meters
in height. It breaks down into three sections, with
the closest to the beach being a tough tube. It is a
popular beach, where one can count up to a hundred surfers
on a good day (an important additional difficulty if
one considers that each series consists of just five
waves). Reserved for experienced surfers.
Access: Located just a few minutes from downtown in
the district of Chorrillos, on the southern outskirts
of Lima.
Pico Alto
The largest and most spectacular wave to be
found in Peru. It is a point break (with left- and right-running
sections, although surfers tend to go more for the latter).
Its perfect, long-running waves can stretch to 10 meters
in height. Not for beginners. Surfers in the know compare
the wave to Waimea (Hawaii) and Todos los Santos (Baja
California). A long paddle out, as the wave breaks 1
kilometer out to sea. The beach draws a lot of visitors
in the summer, when dozens of hostels and restaurants
are open.
Access: Only 43 km south of Lima down the South Pan-American
Highway. Apt for all vehicles.
Punta Rocas
The most famous surf point in Peru and home
to international surfing championships (February). A
big wave, which can run to five meters high. Surfers
call this beach a "wave machine"; right- and
left-running waves, not necessarily perfect, but constant.
Access: Located at Kilometer 45 of the South Pan-American
Highway. Apt for all vehicles.
Isla San Gallán
Peru's best right-breaking wave. Thanks to
its shape, the island features the only beach in Peru
where one can surf right-running tubes that break to
the West. A fairly long wave that breaks down into four
sections. The sea is very cold and winds gust in the
afternoon.
San Gallán is a unique landscape, where surfers
take to the waves amidst hundreds of sea lions. The
island, located off the Paracas peninsula, was recently
included in the national reserve.
Access: One can only reach this spot by sea (one-and-a-half
hours). Surfers tend to rent motorboats on El Chaco
beach. |
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| Other Spots to Check Out |
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Máncora
The point at Máncora is located to the
far south of the town with the same name, at kilometer
1,164 of the North Pan-American Highway.
Organos-El Ñuro
The beach at Organos nestles to one side of the
North Pan-American Highway, at kilometer 1,152. El Ñuro
is to be found 9 km south of Organos and is only accessible
using 4WD vehicles.
Huanchaco
The most famous of Trujillo's beaches, because
fishermen still ride totora reed rafts over the waves
as the locals have done for thousands of years. The village
is located just 4.5 km from the city of Trujillo, next
to the pre-Hispanic mud-brick citadel of Chan Chan.
Costa Verde
Located at the foot of the cliffs that plunge
down from the city of Lima, the Costa Verde is made up
of a chain of beaches mainly located in the district of
Miraflores (such as La Pampilla, Makaha, Waikiki and Redondo).
Great for surfers of all levels, with good waves year-round.
Señoritas
Between Punta Hermosa and Caballeros, just 44
km south of Lima down the South Pan-American Highway,
this beach has become a popular spot for all kinds of
surfers. This beach draws the biggest crowds in the summer,
when the area's many seaside restaurants offer beach-goers
a varied menu of marine dishes.
Puerto Viejo
Located 70 km south of Lima down the South Pan-American
Highway, on the edge of the Cañete Valley. In the
summer, the beach bustles with seafood restaurants catering
to weekend campers and holiday-makers.
Cerro Azul
Just 131 km south of Lima down the South Pan-American
Highway. A superb, fairly long wave. The beach offers
dozens of restaurants and hostels. |
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| Recommendations |
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| Never surf alone. Keep beaches clean by
taking your refuse with you, and do not disturb the marine
wildlife that shares the sea with the visitors (dolphins,
sea lions and seagulls). Check for the presence of undertowns
as well as reefs and rocks on the sea bottom. In addition,
remember that, depending on the area, in March or April
(around Easter Week), tides tend to rise and the waves
swell, increasing the risk. |
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| Sports Fishing |
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Tuna fish, drums, flounder, Pacific croaker,
grunts, groupers and even the world's largest black marlin,
a 1,560 pound specimen caught off Cabo Blanco by Alfredo
Glossel, Jr., are just some of the many fish species to
be found in Peruvian waters. Peru's fishing coves used
to draw such personalities as Bob Hope, Marilyn Monroe,
John Wayne, Prince Philip of Edinburgh, Nelson Rockefeller
and bullfighter Dominguin, all of them out to cast their
line and experience the excitement of deep sea fishing.
The great writer Ernest Hemingway was a regular visitor
to Peruvian waters. The large fish specimens to be found
there inspired his famous book The Old Man and the Sea.
Like Hemingway, fishermen know that Peru is synonymous
of adventure, and above all, great fishing. It is hardly
a coincidence that Peru has always enjoyed the reputation
of being one of the world's leading fishing nations. Here,
fishermen will always find an ideal beach for any kind
of fishing: rocky beaches and cliffs, wide open sandy
beaches, cold waters rich in plankton and clear warm currents.
Happy fishing. |
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| Deep-Sea Fishing |
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Fishermen cast their lines into the sea
all along the vast Peruvian coastline, a sport that
is split into two categories: fishing from dry land,
whether from the beaches or the cliffs, and fishing
from boats.
Fishing from the shore is most common in Peru. Species
like flounder, Pacific Croaker and grunts are popular
amongst fishermen along the sandy beaches of the central
and southern coast. To the North, shore-based fishermen
tend to haul in drums and pámpanos.
Fishing from the bluffs, meanwhile, goes on all down
the coast, needing just craggy shores and rocky coves
to go fishing. The most common fish species caught here
include grunts, Peruvian rock bass and local species
such as cherlo, tramboyo and pintadilla. Both types
of fishermen use live bait, generally small shellfish
to be found in the sand, known locally as muymuy, or
wedge clams and seasnails.
Deep sea fishing also breaks down into two types: casting
from an anchored boat or trawling from a moving boat.
Fish species caught from an anchored boat - along the
central and southern coast - tend to be the same as
those fished from clifftops, adding to the list of northern
species the cuskeel, grouper and smoothhound.
Trawling, meanwhile, is generally done off the north
coast with the aid of artificial bait, pulling in species
such as tuna, cherelas, agujillas, sierras, plumas,
pericos and marlins.
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| Lake and River Fishing |
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Freshwater fishing is split into river and
lake fishing in the highlands, generally above 2,500 masl,
and fishing in the Amazon jungle.
Highland fishing is limited to basically two species:
trout and silverside, both introduced in Peru in the nineteenth
century. These fish are common in clean and well-oxygenated
rivers. At altitudes above 3,000 meters one tends to find
trout (white and pink or rainbow).
Sports fishing in the jungle, less developed than along
the coast, is concentrated in a handful of rivers and
lakes in the northern Amazon (Iquitos and environs), where
native species such as the tucunare, gamitana and araguana
are popular, and also in some parts of the southern jungle
(Madre de Dios), where one can find zúngaros, chambiras,
pacos and doncellas. |
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| Recommendations |
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| Every time fishermen head out to open sea,
whether in their own boat or a rented one, they should
inform the harbor captain of the respective fishing cove.
This can prove to be a big help and avoid accidents. Also
check the list of tides and find about the weather forecast.
Although special permits are not required for sports fishing,
the Fisheries Ministry bans trout and silverside fishing
in the highlands during the summer season in the Andes.
Respect fishing restrictions and throw back small specimens
or those carrying roe. Those fishing from bluffs or beaches
should take care with the cliffs and sandy areas alike.
Never go fishing alone. |
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| Adventure sports |
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If one had to come up with a technical definition
for adventure sports, one could state that they encompass
certain kinds of outdoor activities where physical effort,
fresh air and risk -often extreme- come together to produce
a sensation of pleasure hand-in-hand with a powerful dose
of adrenaline. Since adventure sports first took off in
Peru in the early 1980s, the so-called fin de siècle
sports are gathering more and more fans who seek to escape
the daily routine of life in the cities and experience
some of that numbed sensation of direct contact with nature.
Peru, a land where Nature appears to have crafted the
geography to create challenges for all those venture into
the wilds, could be catalogued without fear of exaggeration
as the New World's adventure sports paradise. And there
are plenty of reasons: Peru is a land where snow, steep
mountainsides, raging rivers and breath-taking landscapes
alternate with deep green lakes and dizzying canyons.
All one needs here is a little imagination and some courage
-or folly- to become, almost without realizing it, an
adventurer.
A world of surprises, incomparable beauty and a hefty
injection of adrenaline await those prepared to leave
any major city and take to the zigzagging roads that climb
up to the highlands or into the desert. Many roads that
penetrate the country's rugged geography follow routes
opened up thousands of years ago and preserved until today
by mule drivers involved in trading products between the
three great natural regions in Peru: coast, highlands
and jungle. To plunge into the outback is to discover
a terrain forged for adventure. The only limits here are
your own. Whitewater rafting
Rafting was made popular in Peru thanks to Polish adventurer
Yurek Majcherzyck and his traveling companions who, after
several attempts, managed to paddle down the torrential
Colca River and cross its 300 rapids that run through
the heart of the department of Arequipa.
Since then, a group of Peruvian enthusiasts has dedicated
a lot of hard work and energy to open up new rafting routes
all across the country. It is a tough task, considering
that Peru is criss-crossed by more than a dozen rivers
that flow for more than 600 km, while just the five longest
rivers alone run across 7,000 km of territory.
Whitewater rafting requires inflatable rubber rafts, which
are, pushed on by paddles and a helmsman generally at
the stern, who guides his crew through the wild river
rapids.
Internationally, rapids are classified on a scale of Class
I to VI according to their difficulty (VI usually being
impossible to tackle, requiring portering the raft along
the river bank). There are no age limits for rafters.
The only requisite is a taste for adventure. |
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| Places of Interest |
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The Coast
The Cañete River is, without a doubt, the favorite
rafting spot for Lima dwellers. The stretch generally
rafted, located near the pleasant fruit-growing area
of Lunahuana, 160 km southeast of Lima, includes rapids
rating Class II and IV. The season starts up in October
and runs until April.
The Tumbes River is the most torrential river found
along the Peruvian coast. The stretch which is generally
rafted, between the communities of Figueroa and Rica
Playa, includes rapids rating Class II and IV, and involves
a 2-3 day trip through the spectacular dry forests of
the Northwest Biosphere Reserve. The area teems with
crocodiles, giant otters and colonies of iguana lizards.
The river is generally rafted between May and October.
The Highlands
The Santa River, located in the stunning Callejón
de Huaylas valley, 400 km northwest of Lima, flows down
to the coast between the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera
Negra massifs. The stretch that is rafted runs from
the town of Caraz to Yungay, and features Class II and
III rapids. The Santa is generally rafted from May to
October, making it an ideal additional reason for visiting
the region.
The Colca River is Peru's premier rafting river, and
its rapids are ranked the world over as amongst the
toughest. The river tumbles down the Colca Valley itself,
300 km north of Arequipa, but can be rafted with little
danger along a 40 km-stretch between Cabanaconde and
Tapay. It can be rafted from May to October and features
Class II to IV rapids. Tours set off from the town of
Chivay. The Colca Canyon, through which the river flows,
is after the Cotahuasi canyon (also in Arequipa), the
second deepest on Earth, and is twice as deep as the
Colorado Canyon.
The Vilcanota, or Urubamba River, which runs through
the heart of the Sacred Valley in Cuzco, features some
areas that are highly popular amongst rafters: one stretch
between Calca and Urubamba, and another between Huambutio
and Pisac, both featuring rapids rating Class II and
III. A third stretch, downstream from Ollantaytambo,
features Class III and IV rapids. The river is rafted
from May to October. The Apurimac River, which has only
recently been added to the rafting circuit, is a unique
experience for its landscapes and difficulty. The river
features Class III and IV rapids, while the trip takes
3-4 days. Expeditions set off from the city of Cuzco.
Recommended for experts.
The Jungle
The Mayo and Huallaga Rivers in the department
of San Martín, are extraordinarily beautiful
rivers which have only recently been added to the commercial
circuit. These rivers feature Class II and III rapids
which can be rafted from May to October. Tours set off
from the city of Tarapoto. There is little doubt that
the Tambopata River, wild and torrential, is the most
spectacular rafting route in Peru. The tour starts in
Puno, setting off from the community of Putina Puku
(1,900 masl), and tumbles along through one of the richest
and most exuberant tropical jungles to be found in Peru,
winding its way into the Madre de Dios department (at
an altitude of 200 masl on the Amazonian plain). The
trip, which runs through the largest strip of uninhabited
countryside remaining, takes 7-12 days and requires
some complex logistics. The river features Class III
and IV rapids. |
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| Recommendations |
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| Always hire the services of companies with
experience in rafting. Follow exactly the instructions
of the guides and raft captains and always demand safety
gear (helmets and life jackets). Do not insist on going
to rafting areas that are excessively difficult or unknown,
as this can lead to serious accidents. |
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Peru's
20 Longest Rivers |
| River |
Length (km) |
| Ucayali |
1,771 |
| Marañón |
1,414 |
| Putumayo |
1,380 |
| Yavarí |
1,184 |
| Huallaga |
1,138 |
| Urubamba |
862 |
| Mantaro |
724 |
| Amazon |
713 |
| Apurímac |
690 |
| Napo |
667 |
| Madre de Dios |
655 |
| Tacuatimanu |
621 |
| Tigre |
598 |
| Purús |
483 |
| Corrientes |
448 |
| Tapiche |
448 |
| Inambari |
437 |
| Curaray |
414 |
| Morona |
402 |
| Tambopata |
402 |
| Total |
15,451 |
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| Mountain Biking |
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This is the fastest-growing sport in the
country. Thousands of bikers today take their light-frame
bikes into every gully and trail they can find all along
the country's rugged geography.
Biking took off in Peru in the mid-1980s, and since then
has never looked back. The number of bikers and the quality
of circuits have both grown by leaps and bounds.
Actually, any part of the country, with the exception
of the coastal desert and the jungle plains, is apt for
mountain biking, an exciting sport that requires minimum
gear and can be undertaken by either the novice or the
experienced sports lover.
Based on the degree of difficulty and logistical needs,
however, biking circuits can be broken down into three
major categories: (A) considered apt for beginners, involving
routes with gentle slopes and hard, compact terrain; (B)
for bikers with a degree of experience, including circuits
that run along steeper slopes and imply a certain degree
of risk for cyclists; and (C) reserved for experts because
of steep slopes and extremely loose terrain (involving
a great degree of risk and often at high altitude). So
get your bike, and explore Peru. |
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| Places of Interest |
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Pachacámac
Located 31 km from Lima down the former South Pan-American
Highway, this valley has become the most popular spot
for Lima bikers. From the former San Fernando plantation,
located east of the town of Pachacámac, one can
reach a series of circuits that vary according to the
degree of difficulty and types of terrain: La Chacra (A),
on the route to Cieneguilla, El Manzano (B), El Cardal
(B), El Chirimoyo (C), El Lúcumo (C), Las Lomas
(B), amongst others. The area is open for biking between
April and December.
Olleros-San Bartolo
Located in the upper reaches of the Lurín
Valley, this circuit starts out by climbing up the desert
gully of Tinajas up to the spot called Repartición
(3,000 masl), from where one abruptly descends to the
area of El Huayco, to end up crossing 30 km of practically
flat land into the beach resorts of San Bartolo or Chilca,
according to choice. The route is reserved for experts
(C). Bikers would do well to take along plenty of water
as well as a guide or an expert on the route. The trail
is biked between May and October.
Los Platanales de Totoritas
For several years now, this has been the most
popular biking route along the coast. Totoritas is a beach
resort located near the town of Mala, 81 km south of Lima.
The routes, which gather increasingly larger crowds of
bikers every year, wind their way through fields of crops
and form part of the international mountain bike rally
circuits. Like in Pachacámac, there are several
types of routes to be found: Los Platanales (A), El Mirador
de Azpitia (A), La Antena (B) and El Canal Madre (B),
amongst others. The area is cycled in the summer season
(December-March).
Other Circuits in Lima
Other interesting areas near the capital include
routes through the Upper Cañete Valley, especially
those that run through the communities of Vilca and Alis;
the area of Huarochirí, and the upper reaches of
the Lima highlands, between the lake and town of Marcapomacocha,
and the Santa Eulalia Valley.
Paracas
The Paracas Reserve, especially the peninsula
and southern coast, is a vast playground for biking enthusiasts.
The area features short and simple routes, like those
that run along the beaches, or ones that are extremely
difficult, weaving between sand dunes and climbing steep
hillsides. As a rule, it is advisable to take along plenty
of water and a map of the area. Preferably, bikers should
tackle these routes accompanied by an expert.
The Cordillera Blanca
One of the most spectacular routes to be found
in Peru. Amongst the gullies and mountains of the Callejón
de Huaylas valley lie dozens of beautiful and at the same
time tough biking routes. Most circuits climb to a great
height (above 3,500 masl), before dropping down steep
slopes. One of the most popular routes is the one that
runs from Lake Llanganuco (3,800 masl) to the town of
Yungay. Another route links up the 4,800 meter pass of
Punta Olímpica with the city of Carhuaz. Both are
Class A and B routes, recommended between May and October.
Warm clothing and spare parts are indispensable, as are
precautions to ward off high altitude sickness, known
locally as soroche.
Canchaque-Huancabamba
A little-known route, but very beautiful. The
route sets off from the city of Piura and climbs east
up to the small town of Canchaque. From there, the route
starts a dramatic climb up to the 3,000 meter Cruz Blanca
pass before zigzagging down to the village of Huancabamba,
in the heart of the Piura highlands. Recommended for experienced
bikers (B), and preferably from May to October. Bring
warm clothing and water. Huancabamba has some restaurants
and rustic lodgings.
The Colca Valley
Located three hours north of Arequipa, the Colca
Valley is definitely a paradise for eco-tourism and outdoors
fans. The valley opens up at Chivay and is slashed by
two roads that run from east to west. Both are ideal for
mountain biking. However, the more demanding cycle routes
(B or C) are to be found along the dozens of dirt tracks
that run down to villages and farmlands in never-ending
zig-zags that run down the valley. The most popular route
is the one that links up Chivay with Cabanaconde and runs
past the lookout point at Mirador de Condores. Best biked
from May to October. Take warm clothing and spare parts.
The Sacred Valley
At just an hour by road from the city of Cuzco,
the Vilcanota River Valley offers a wide range of routes
for bikers. Located at an altitude of 2,500 masl, the
area is riddled with picturesque villages and natural
landscapes that, together with a taste for adventure,
make for unparalleled circuits of stunning beauty plus
major cultural attractions. The valley also features some
of Peru's most spectacular pre-Hispanic ruins: Ollantaytambo,
the Inca fortress and town; Pisac, the extraordinary complex
of terracing; the pre-Columbian agricultural experimentation
center of Moray, and many others. The dry season (May
to October) is the best time to visit. Cuzco features
companies that run tours and rent the necessary equipment.
Cuzco-Paucartambo-Cosñipata
Valley
A route with a medium degree of difficulty (B
or C), depending on the trails the biker wishes to cover.
The circuit sets out from Cuzco and crosses one of the
most spectacular high-altitude areas on Earth: Andean
intervalleys filled with colonial villages, a tundra-like,
high Andean plain featuring traditional communities, and
the exuberant cloud forest of the Manu National Park,
which teems with a variety of flora and fauna. The route
takes 3-4 days and requires some complex logistics.
Best visited from May to October. It is advisable to bring
warm clothing and camping gear, and take precautions against
high altitude sickness. |
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| Recommendations |
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| Always wear a helmet, goggles, gloves and
elbow and knee pads. Tours should be done in groups of
at least three members, all of whom should take along
water or rehydrating liquids. A couple of spare inner
tubes are necessary, as are some basic tools for changing
flat tires. To choose the route, bear in mind your physical
condition and do not demand more from yourself than realistically
possible. Remember that biking, like any sport, should
provide relaxation, and not massive injuries. |
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| Paragliding and Hang Gliding |
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There are two main types of apparatus used
by those fond of flying: flying mechanisms that use the
aerodynamics of wings in order to fly; and the classic
parachute, which simply drops. Paragliding and hang gliding
share a structure made of a cloth or synthetic fiber which
moves with the winds. The difference stems from the fact
the paraglider is not rigid, while the hang glider is.
Hang gliding was born from an unsuccessful model developed
by NASA to improve aerospace rescue parachutes, something
which caught on amongst those with a penchant for flying.
The first hang glider was brought to Peru in the 1970s.
Paragliding, meanwhile, did not take off in Peru until
the early 1990s. Its origins date back to Savoie in France,
where persevering sportsmen modified the classic parachute
until they came up with others split up into cells, allowing
for a longer flight with more room for maneuver. The concept
has since improved, to the stage that today flyers can
glide for 10 km for each 1,000 meters they drop.
Once up in the air, sportsmen tackle two kinds of currents:
ascending, which are divided up into thermal (columns
of warm air generated by the heating up of refractory
surfaces) and orographic (which are created when air rebounds
off a cliff or similar obstacle); and descending, similar
to pockets of air that produce turbulence for jet airplanes.
Choose your best option... and head for the vertigo. |
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| Places of Interest |
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Cuzco
The Sacred Valley guarantees some first-rate flights:
the Mirador de Chinchero, a lookout point over the town
with the same name, provides a dynamic flight on the strength
of the wind that buffets the hillside and then climbs
in updrafts; and the Cerro Sacro hill, located on the
Pampa de Maras plain, where there are good thermal currents.
Fliers take to the air at altitudes of between 3,000 and
4,000 masl. Take-offs are best very early in the morning
or in the late afternoon. Ideal between May and October.
Moyobamba
The famous Morro Calzada rears over this jungle
city, a hill that is a haven for plants and animals and
is popular for Sunday excursions. Flights here are simple,
featuring good thermal currents. Ideal between May and
October. Callejón
de Huaylas
A paradise nestling amongst soaring mountains
and deep gorges. The area that sees most visitors lies
between the towns of Caraz and Yungay, especially the
Pan de Azúcar hilltop. This was the launching point
for Swiss parapente enthusiast Franz Schilter, who made
an 80 kilometer flight up the valley to the city of Huaraz.
Best between May and October.
Lima
The Costa Verde Seaboard has become the scenario
of choice for lovers of air sports. The Parque Ghandi,
a park wedged between the districts of San Isidro and
Miraflores, is the main meeting place for enthusiasts.
It is an ideal area when the winds gust from the west.
Also, just 30 km south of Lima lies the valley of Pachacámac,
one of the most popular flying areas for Lima residents.
Paul Poblete Park and the area of El Manzano (which also
attracts mountain bikers) are two other popular spots.
North of Lima, some 60 km, lies Pasamayo, a vast sand
dune which can be reached from the Pan-American Highway,
the best spot is the summit of the Serpentín pass
(serpentine), so-dubbed because of the winding road that
hangs on the cliff over the Pacific Ocean.
Ica
The desert also has spots that are ideal for
flying: the hillside of Jahuay along the South Pan-American
Highway (still within the confines of Lima), and the La
Catedral beach in the heart of the Paracas reserve (along
kilometer 250 in Ica) provide excellent
areas for flying. |
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| Recommendations |
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| Never fly alone. Amateurs are strongly advised
to hire the services of companies or experts who can provide
them with equipment and information on the best spots
for flying. Always use safety gear. In Peru, no license
for this type of gliding is needed, although there is
an association that regulates and monitors the sport.
Avoid areas near airports, airstrips or high voltage power
cables. |
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| Other Adventure Sports |
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Windsurfing and
Sandboarding
Despite the fact these sports are newcomers to
Peru, open air sports like windsurfing and sandboarding
have been gaining increasing numbers of followers in recent
years. Windsurfers flock to the breezy bays of Paracas
(Atenas, Mendieta and Yumaque) as well as certain areas
along the north coast such as Pasamayo, El Paraíso
and Medio Mundo, the most popular spot.
Sandboarding has become popular on the sand dunes near
Ocucaje, Villacuri and Ica, an ideal area to take to the
steep sandy slopes of the desert.
Hot Air Ballooning
Since 1988, a company based in Cuzco, Globos de los Andes,
has been running tourist hot air balloon flights over
the Sacred Valley of the Incas.
The one-hour flights cost US$300 per person. Setting off
in the morning from the community of Maras, 55 km from
the city of Cuzco, balloonists take to the air and enjoy
an unusual view of the Cuzco countryside, its snow-capped
peaks, several archaeological sites and main towns.
The company also runs flights dedicated to bungee jumping
over the Cuzco area, including the Inca fortress of Sacsayhuaman.
Underwater Fishing and Scuba
Diving
Underwater fishing has been popular in Peru for
decades. The Peruvian sea provides excellent fishing,
with a large variety of scenarios to practice water sports,
which has made underwater fishing one of the most popular
sports in coastal cities and ports. The coasts of Pucusana,
Paracas and Ilo to the south, and Tumbes and Piura to
the north, are the most popular spots among fishermen.
Scuba diving, meanwhile, is not widely practiced in Peru.
The coasts do, however, offer ideal conditions, with unexplored
beaches, huge schools of Coastal sea fish and colonies
of playful sea lions.
Although in few spots along the Peruvian coastline are
waters as clear as in the Caribbean or the Atlantic, they
are home to a greater diversity of species, making Peru
an exceptional place for those looking for a unique and
different experience. |
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| Peru: Location and Climate |
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Peru is located on the central section of
South America, and its coasts are lapped by the Pacific
Ocean. The country has a population of 24 million and
a territory of 1,285,215 square kilometers (the size of
Spain, France and Italy combined), making it one of the
20 largest countries on Earth. Due to its location, the
Peruvian coast has always been a vital link for maritime
routes and trade with the subcontinent. Peru also lays
claim to 200 nautical miles of ocean off its coasts and
has rights over a 60 million hectare stake in the Antarctic.
The Coast
Due to the effect of the cold Humboldt current
and the presence of the Andes to the East, the coast is
a vast and arid desert, a land where it never rains. The
central and southern coast of Peru has two well-defined
seasons: winter from April to October, and summer from
November to March. During the winter, a thick layer of
cloud blankets the skies, and it frequently drizzles.
Despite the sensation of low temperatures sparked by the
high humidity, it is rarely colder than 12 °C. During
the summer, on the other hand, the sun shines brightly
and temperatures often top 30 °C.
The northern section of the coast, meanwhile, is not affected
by the cold current, meaning that part of the country
sees sunshine and warm temperatures (up to 35 °C in
the summer) 300 days a year. Rains fall between November
and March, which increase during years when the El Niño
weather anomally sets in.
The Highlands
The highlands, or sierra, lives through two seasons:
the dry season from April to October, where the sun shines
during the day and nights are cold (often bringing frost),
and it rarely rains (the ideal time to visit); and the
wet season (oddly enough called winter) from November
to March, when rainfall is heavy (often over 1,000 mm).
The region stands out for the range in temperatures throughout
the day. One commonly comes across temperatures plunging
from 24 °C at midday to -3 °C around dawn. The
highlands are also endowed with a pleasant, dry climate,
which spurs the planting of a vast variety of crops.
The Jungle
The jungle can be divided into the highland jungle
or cloud forest (above 700 masl) and lowland jungle (below
700 masl). High jungle country features a subtropical,
balmy climate, with heavy rainfall (some 3,000 mm a year)
between November and March, and bright sunshine from April
to October. It is always cool at night.
The lowland jungle regions, meanwhile, experience two
extremely different seasons, which accentuate depending
on the proximity to the Equator. The dry season from April
to October (the ideal time of year for tourism) is marked
by sunshine-filled days and high temperatures, often over
35 °C. During these months, the flow rate of the rivers
drops and the roads are easy to drive along. The rainy
season, however, which runs from November to March, features
frequent downpours (at least once a day), and muddy roads
which make traveling difficult.
The humidity is high in the jungle all year round. In
the south of the country, the jungle region is sometimes
hit by cold winds, known locally as a "friaje",
a front that moves north from the far south of the continent
between May and August, when temperatures can plunge to
8-12 °C.
Note: To calculate
Fahrenheit temperatures: 9/5 (ºC) + 32 |
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| Suggested Reading |
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Agua de los Andes: Esplendor y Magia de
los Ríos, Lagos y Manantiales del Perú.
(Rivers & lakes in Peru) Walter H. Wust. Lima: Peisa
editores, 1998.
Altur '98. (Participative tourism) Lima: PromPerú
& Unión Europea editores, 1998.
Callejón de Huaylas y Cordillera Blanca: Información
Turística. Felipe Díaz B. 1989.
El Álbum de la Arena. (Peru's deserts). Alejandro
Balaguer. Lima: Peisa editores, 1995.
EL Perú a Toda Costa. (Peru's beaches). Lima: Editur
S.A., 1997.
Exploring Cuzco. Peter Frost. 1985.
Guía Inca del Perú: Destinos Turísticos
y Red Vial. (Tourist destinations & road maps) Lima:
Peisa editores, 1998.
Perú-El Dorado. (Culture and travel quarterly).
Lima: PromPerú. Especially issues No. 5 (beaches)
and 10 (adventure).
Perú Mágico. Lima: PromPerú, 1997.
Plan de Uso Turístico y Recreativo del Parque Nacional
Huascarán. Lima: Instituto de Montaña, 1996.
Por los Caminos del Perú en Bicicleta. (Cycling).
Lima: Editur S.A., 1998.
Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash. Jim Bartle.
1985. |
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