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Mountain Trekking
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Peru is a true hikers’ paradise.
Practically all of the sierra, including valleys, plateaus
and mountain ranges include trekking circuits of various
degrees of difficulty. However, only a few have been
"discovered" as commercial trekking routes.
The rest are still unexplored and await those who wish
to walk the magical trails of the Peruvian Andes and
their extraordinary web of pre-Columbian roads. More
than 15,000 lakes, the deepest canyons on Earth, glaciers
and snow-capped mountains, forests and waterfalls, picturesque
towns and the most hospitable people one could imagine
welcome travelers.
Some roads are so steep they get lost in dizzying abysses,
or they zigzag like huge snakes between the mountains,
like flat and long ribbons lost in the immensity of
the desert, or hidden and imperceptible in the thickness
of the Amazon forest.
The roads of Peru offer endless possibilities and the
ideal combination for trekkers of all levels of experience
and requirements.
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| The Inca Trail to Machu
Picchu |
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Part of the 23,000 kilometers (approximately
14,000 miles) of roads built by the Incas in South America,
this is Peru’s most famous trekking route and
possibly one of the most spectacular in the Americas.
Every year, some 25,000 hikers from around the world
walk along the extraordinary 43 kilometers of this stone-paved
road built by the Incas leading to the unassailable
citadel of Machu Picchu located in the depth of the
Cuzco jungle.
The journey starts in the village of Qorihuayrachina,
at kilometer 88 of the Cuzco-Quillabamba railway and
takes three or four days of strenuous walking. The route
includes an impressive variety of altitudes, climates
and ecosystems that range from the high Andean plain
to the cloud forest. Travelers will cross two high altitude
passes (the highest being Warmiwañuska at 4,200
masl) to culminate the hike with a magical entrance
to Machu Picchu through the Inti Punko or Gateway of
the Sun.
One of the main attractions along the route is the web
of ancient settlements built in granite rock by the
Incas like Wiñay Wayna and Phuyupatamarca immersed
in an overpowering natural scenery. Hundreds of species
of orchids, multicolored birds and dreamlike landscapes
provide the ideal backstage for a route that every hiker
should walk at least once.
Many travel agencies sell complete packages to trek
the Inca Trail that include meals, camping gear and
porter services. Travelers who wish to organize themselves
independently can find porters in the communities of
Chillca and Wayllabamba who will charge a modest fee
to help carry your gear. Drinking water and food supplies,
as well as full camping gear are needed.
The Machu Picchu administration charges a US$ 50 per
person fee to provide road maintenance. Admission to
the sanctuary is included in the ticket. In Wiñay
Wayna –site of some of the most impressive agricultural
terraces found in Peru– travelers will find toilets
and a visitor’s shelter.
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| The Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range |
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"A great sea of mountains,"
"Peru’s Chamonix" are some of the remarks
made by mountaineers who visit the site. Located 410
kilometers northeast of Lima (5-6 hours by car and 7-8
hours by bus), the Cordillera Blanca is the world’s
highest tropical mountain chain. It stretches for 180
km from north to south and splits the eastern and western
headwaters of the Andes in this region. Easily reachable
by a paved road off Pativilca (210 km north of Lima)
that leads to the Callejón de Huaylas, every
year the Cordillera Blanca welcomes thousands of mountaineers
eager to conquer its summits or walk through its beautiful
landscapes. Practically the entire range is a protected
area within the Huascarán National Park, a paradise
of snow-capped mountains, 663 glaciers, 269 emerald-green
lakes and 41 rivers, plus 33 archaeological sites. Its
flora and fauna are an additional attraction featuring
almost 800 varieties of blossoming flowers including
the Puya Raimondi and ancient queñual and cacti
forests unique to these mountain scenarios, as well
as Andean condors, vicuña, puma, taruca or Andean
deer and well over a hundred species of birds.
Only a handful of the area’s innumerable trekking
circuits have gained international fame. The route across
the Santa Cruz gorge is perhaps the most popular of
all. From the village of Cashapampa where it starts,
all the way to the Llanganuco ravine, it is dotted with
beautiful emerald-green lakes. A walking tour of the
gully usually takes four to six days. Other highly popular
circuits include a tour of Alpamayo, a spectacular trek
among snow-capped summits that takes about 12 days;
the Cedros gorge tour where trekkers take four days
to hike the mountains in the northern sector of the
Huascarán Park; the less demanding and faster
(one and a half days) trek through Llanganuco and Portachuelo,
and the excursion through the Quilcayhuanca ravine,
a gently sloping route that can be traveled in a couple
of days.
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| Llama-trek Expedition in Olleros-Chavín |
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A new and interesting way to trek, llama-packing
is part of Llama 2000, an initiative undertaken by a
group of peasant farmers from the Callejón de
Huaylas and the Mountain Association of the Olleros-Chavín
area. The initiative is designed to promote ecotourism
in the Ancash department by rescuing its traditions.
Llama and alpaca –the traditional Andean beasts
of burden– captivate the walkers’ attention
during their trip along some of the most spectacular
trails in the Cordillera Blanca and Huascarán
National Park.
The route starts in the charming town of Olleros (30
kilometers south of Huaraz) where llamas are loaded
with the necessary travel gear. During four days of
walking and enjoying the scenic beauty of the area and
the views of snow-capped peaks like Shaqsha (5,703 m),
Cashan (5,686 m) and Tuctupunta (5,343 m), travelers
have the opportunity of sharing the customs and traditions
of local peasant communities at Shongo (a site dotted
with imposing sacred monoliths or huacas) and Nunupata.
The route ends at the splendid archaeological site of
Chavín de Huántar, built to serve as the
administrative and ceremonial center of the first pre-Columbian
civilization that spread over most of what is now Peru.
UNESCO declared the site part of Mankind’s Cultural
Heritage in 1985. Dozens of structures in polished rock,
underground plazas and galleries, and peculiar gargoyle
heads and carved stone slabs make Chavín an indispensable
stop for visitors to the area.
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| Cordillera Huayhuash |
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Located about 50 km south of the Cordillera
Blanca, and 250 km northeast of Lima, Huayhuash is one
of the least known mountain ranges in the world and
at the same time one of the most beautiful. It stretches
along 30 km from north to south and includes a string
of gorgeous snow-capped mountains, most notably the
Yerupajá, and dozens of glaciered lakes of unparalleled
beauty like Carhuacocha, Jahuacocha, Mitucocha, among
others. The full trekking circuit that, according to
experts, is one of the world’s most spectacular
routes in the world, stretches along some 165 kilometers
(100 miles) and can be walked in about 12 days.
Only one route goes full circle around the range. Two
days after leaving Chiquián (3,400 masl), travelers
will reach the heart of the range. The route climbs
over five mountain passes and crosses charming peasant
farming and herders’ communities like Llamac,
Pocpa, Huayllapa and Pacllón, to complete the
northern section of the loop. The route then continues
along the eastern side and finishes on the western face
of the mountains.
A shorter circuit (45 kilometers) links Chiquián
to lake Jahuacocha. The trek sets off from the villages
of Llamac and Pocpa and finishes at Pacllón.
Extraordinary glaciers, crystal-clear lakes, herds of
llama and alpaca, hospitable residents and, most of
all, pristine landscapes are the rewards awaiting those
willing to venture in the discovery of this unique trekking
circuit. |
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| The Colca Valley |
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Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa once
called the Colca "The Valley of Marvels."
In the Colca, travelers will find a series of circuits
of breathtaking beauty that have only recently been
included as part of adventure expeditions. Located 150
kilometers north of Arequipa at the end of a gravel
road, it’s made up of an almost endless web of
horse trails that crisscross the valley’s ridges
to link colonial towns of unusual splendor.
A touch of interest is added by the beautiful lakes,
unique formations carved by erosion into the rock, and
plentiful, rare animal and plant wildlife including
the Andean condor and vicuña, queñual
forests and fields with century-old yaretas. Major attractions
include the area’s imposing snow-capped volcanoes
some of which are active, like Hualca Hualca (6,025
m), Sabancaya (5,976 m) and Ampato (6,288 m) among others.
Since the dawn of time, the Colca has been home to the
Collagua and Cabana ethnic groups, two peoples whose
origins can be traced back to the High Plateau Pucara
and Quechua ethnic groups from Cuzco. Their mastery
of hydraulic engineering can be seen in the sophisticated
system of agricultural terraces that decorates the steep
flanks of the valley.
One of the most popular trekking routes in the Colca
links Cabanaconde and Tapay. The expedition lasts from
three to four days during which travelers will enjoy
some impressive scenery, Cabana villages like Cosnihua
and Malata, and numerous pre-Hispanic ruins.
Tour operators in Arequipa and Colca (towns of Chivay
and Yanque) offer trekking and horseback riding packages.
Lodging and restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets
are also available. |
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| Mount Ausangate |
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The heart of the eastern Andes, south of
the ancient and magical city of Cuzco, is dominated by
Mount Ausangate (6,333 m), the main Apu or mountain spirit
of Peru’s southern Andes.
Access to the massif is made possible by a paved road
that sets off from Ocongate. The 8-to-12 day walk is physically
demanding, as it requires climbing through high mountain
passes and being exposed to changing weather conditions.
Trekking and adventure travel agents offer circuit packages
from Cuzco. Hiring an experienced agency and local guides
is advisable.
In addition to the spectacular Andean backdrop, the route
is dotted with numerous Quechua communities that continue
to make a living from traditional communal farming and
llama and alpaca herding. |
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| Mount Salkantay |
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A stately 6,271 meter mountain, Mount
Salkantay rises over Machu Picchu, in the breathtaking
Vilcanota Range.
There, at the end of a trekking route that combines
the rarely surpassed magnificence of its natural backdrop
and the attraction of the world’s best known pre-Hispanic
legacy, stand the Machu Picchu citadel and the Inca
Trail.
The expedition starts by taking the old Inca stone-road
that leads to the lost city of Machu Picchu and crosses
a mountain pass between Mount Salkantay and Mount Humantay
(5,917 m).
The excursion then proceeds down the Aobamba river gorge
up to the archaeological site. From the path it is possible
to get a unique view of the most beautiful mountains
in Cuzco: Wayanay (5,464 m), Palcay (5,229 m), and Wakay
Willka or Veronica (5,750 m), located on the opposite
bank of the Urubamba river valley. Several Cuzco trekking
and adventure travel operators offer this circuit. It
is also highly recommended to hire an experienced local
guide. |
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| Coast and Cloud Forest Trekking |
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Trekking does not necessarily demand mountain
ranges or steep slopes. Some sites along the Peruvian
Pacific seaboard combine the immensity and deceiving emptiness
of the desert with a ragged coastline to create scenery
of unsurpassed beauty and attractiveness.
One such site is undoubtedly the Paracas desert, located
some 250 kilometers south of Lima, where yellowish saltpeter
plains, fine sand dunes, wind-eroded cliffs, and an extraordinarily
rich sea provide fishing grounds for huge colonies of
sea birds and seals in a unique environment on Peru’s
coast. Many roads, some of which double as top-notch trekking
circuits, can be found in the Paracas Bay and Peninsula.
On Peru’s northern tip, Bayóvar and its virgin
beaches are a natural jewel in the Piura department. Deep
gorges carved by now-dry rivers that flow only once every
50 years, have molded a fierce landscape. Forests of twisted
carob trees, flocks of migratory birds, and a wind-swept
desert are some of its most singular attractions.
On the other side of the Andes mountains, down the abrupt
slopes that overlook the east of Peru and drenched by
rain originating in the steamy Amazon plain, lies the
high jungle.
A land of impenetrable forests, it is considered the last
haven of a unique plant wildlife (including orchids, bromeliae
and ferns) and rare endangered animals like the spectacled
bear, the dwarf deer and the yellow-tailed wooly monkey.
One route in this area leads to the wonderous Kuelap fortress,
the Amazon jungle enclave of the Sachapuya people, renowned
for the spectacular clay rock fortified walls they built
around this citadel, built at 3,000 masl on top of an
imposing rocky ridge.
Kuelap is the most important archaeological attraction
in Peru’s northeast and consists of a beautifully-engineered
citadel sitting on top of two huge superimposed platforms.
For its sheer size (584 by 110 m) and characteristics,
the site is comparable to Cuzco’s Sacsayhuman.
To reach Kuelap, travelers must head for Chachapoyas,
after a 50-minute flight from Lima or a full day’s
car drive from Chiclayo on the coast (750 km north of
Lima). From Chachapoyas, they head by road to Tinco, in
the Utcubamba valley and then up a 7-kilometer gravel
road to the fortress.
Other interesting routes in the Eastern Andes include
the splendid eastbound roads from Cuzco and Puno which
are still largely unknown to trekking aficionados. |
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