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| Perú: Location and
Climate |
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Peru is located on the central part
of western South America and is hemmed in by the Pacific
Ocean. Home to more than 24 million inhabitants, the
country covers a surface of 1,285,215 km2 (about the
combined size of Spain, France and Italy) making it
one of the 20 largest countries on Earth.
Also because of their geographical location, Peru’s
coasts have traditionally served as a vital point in
maritime and trade routes on the subcontinent. Moreover,
Peru has sovereign rights over 200 miles off its coasts,
and territorial rights over 60 million hectares in Antarctica.
The Coastline
Due to the presence of the cold Humboldt Current and
the fact the coast is limited to the east by the Andes,
the Coastline is a long barren desert where there is
almost no rain. Winter runs from April to October in
the central and south coastal regions while summer lasts
from November to March.
In winter, skies are heavily overcast and a light drizzle,
called garúa, is frequent. Despite an intense
chill factor caused by high humidity, temperatures rarely
fall below 12º C.
In Summer, however, the sun shines brightly, making
temperatures frequently rise to 30º C. The north
coast is not affected by cold water currents, which
is why the area is blessed with almost 300 warm, sunny
days a year with temperatures that can reach 35º
C in summer. The El Niño weather phenomenon considerably
increases rainfall in this region from November to March.
The Andes
Two distinct seasons can be found in the Andes. One
is a rainless winter that runs from April to October
when days are sunny and nights cold with frequent frosts,
thus making it the perfect time for a visit. Heavy rains
(generally more than 1,000 mm or about 40 inches), fall
in the rainy season –erroneously known as "winter"–
that lasts from November to March.
The Andean climate features radical temperature changes
over the same 24-hour period from 24º C in the
day to as low as 3º C at night. The mountain climate
is dry and favors a wide variety of crops.
The Jungle
Split into the high jungle (above 700 masl) and low
jungle (below 700 masl). The subtropical, mild climate
of the high jungle features rainfall (approximately
3,000 mm or 120 inches a year) from November to March
and sunny days from April to October. Nights are always
cool.
In the lower jungle or Amazon plain, two well-marked
seasons are directly related to distance to the Equator.
In the dry, travel season running from April to October,
days are often sunny and temperatures climb above 35º
C. River flow drops and roads are usually open to traffic.
From November to March, showers are frequent –at
least once a day– and road travel difficult.
Humidity is extremely high throughout the year. From
May to August, an occasional frost originating in cold
fronts, called friajes or surazos, blowing north from
the southern tip of the subcontinent may hit the southern
jungle and make temperatures fall to between 8 and 12º
C.
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| Mountain Climate |
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It is often said that in tropical mountain
ranges, rather than four seasons in the year, there
are four seasons in a day. Mornings in the Peruvian
Andes are bright but cool like in springtime.
The day heats up through noon when, like in summer,
many head for the shade. In the afternoon, cumulus clouds
that appeared in the sky during the morning hours reach
their climax, and the oblique rays of the sun make it
feel like autumn. After the usually short sunset, a
winter cold sets in.
Such varied weather patterns result from the location
of the Andes, which run from north to south and separate
the warm and humid Amazon basin winds from the masses
of cold wind blowing from the Pacific Ocean.
Due to their tropical location, the Peruvian Andes feature
well-defined rainy and dry seasons with an almost imperceptible
transition period between the two.
Also, due to Peru’s location in the Southern Hemisphere,
seasons are reversed compared to Europe and the United
States.
May to September
Winter or the dry season is the only season open to
high mountain climbing. Proximity to the Equator means
shorter days by 30 to 50 minutes as the season moves
on. Frosts occur above 4,500 masl. July offers the best
weather, before the cold northern winds start blowing
in August.
September to December
A season suitable for climbing lower glaciers and trekking,
it is similar to spring in the Northern Hemisphere.
Afternoon showers and an occasional electric storm become
more frequent as cumulus clouds dump off their morning
humidity in a matter of minutes. Skies are then clear
before night falls and the skies become studded with
stars.
December to May
A season of torrential afternoon storms, and occasional
light, persistent drizzle, this is not an appropriate
time for mountaineering expeditions in the Andes. On
a rainless day, a walking tour may be possible along
a gully, although streams, almost dry in winter, can
become impossible to cross during this time of the year.
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Trekking |
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| Distances |
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Always check with the local residents
about the state of repair and condition of roads. However,
they should not be relied upon to provide accurate information
on time and distance since their replies are based on
subjective impressions. The usual "just over the
hill" answer usually implies long hours of strenuous
uphill climbing at great altitude.
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| The Environment |
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“Leave nothing but foot prints,
take nothing but pictures.” Plants must not be
uprooted or cut. Do not start fires in high altitude
forests. Do not deface road signs. Fishing and hunting
are forbidden in the dry season (when trout fishing
is strictly banned).
Always tell local authorities or the mountaineers’
association when you are entering a mountain area.
Never trek or climb by yourself. Do not litter. Bring
back all disposable materials and wastes. Leaving them
on the mountain trail causes pollution
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| Snow Conditions |
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Andean mountains are also subject to
global warming and glacial retrenchment which translates
into the loss of about two meters (6 ft.) of snow every
year with the ensuing ongoing changes of aspect and
feasible approaches to the mountains. Large masses of
serac or compacted snow blocks break off. Above 4,500
masl, rain falls as snow.
Generally, snow in the Andes sticks firmly to steep
slopes and may even form shelves near the leeward side
of the summit. Exceptionally, shelves may appear on
both sides of a ridge. Another peculiarity of mountains
in this region is the appearance of stepped or grooved
snow walls.
Mountain faces in the Southern Hemisphere have a number
of features that make them different from those in the
Northern Hemisphere.
North faces are sunnier. The sun and cold modify snow
and ice. The best climbing snow can be found here.
South faces are more stable. Snow remains unchanged
due to scarce sunlight and temperatures usually drop
below 0º C. Plenty of soft snow is found at the
beginning of the dry season from May to September.
East and West faces show mixed features. Quite often,
a hike along a west- or east-oriented shelf will reveal
substantial changes in snow conditions.
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| Shelters |
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There are practically no high mountain
shelters in Peru except in the Cordillera Blanca which
features a single, well-prepared shelter at the end
of the approach to the Pisco glacier. There are also
shelters near the Parón lagoon in Ancash owned
by a hydro-electric power station and another on the
ascent route to the Misti (Eagle’s Nest) volcano
in Arequipa.
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| Rescue Teams |
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These must be trusted to highly trained
guides. In the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash areas,
rescue efforts are coordinated by the Guides’
Association (Casa de Guías), which should be
contacted to carry out search and rescue missions. The
victims or their relatives must pay the corresponding
expenses. When helicopter support is needed, the respective
consular authorities will negotiate rental fees with
the Peruvian Navy or Air Force. Total rescue expenses
usually fluctuate between US$3,000 and 5,000. |
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| Scale of Difficulty |
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Generally the UIAA scale is used to rate
the ascent’s degree of steepness and difficulty
whether on rock, snow or ice.
Easy (E): snow slopes up to 40º.
Slightly difficult (SD): snow slopes up to 45º
with an occasional harder short segment. Mixed or rock
to degree II.
Moderately difficult (MD): snow slopes up to 45º
with an occasional harder, somewhat longer segment.
Mixed or rock to degree III.
Difficult (D): slopes up to 55º on snow with one
or two long ice segments between 60º and 70º,
or shorter but harder segments. Mixed or rock up to
degree IV.
Very difficult (VD): numerous long, sustained segments
at 60º on ice and one or two long ice passages
between 70º and 85º or shorter somewhat harder
passages. Mixed or rock to degree V.
Extremely difficult (ED): long vertical passages on
ice. Mixed or rock to degreee VI and occasional artificial
surface.
Exceptionally difficult (XD): long haul itinerary of
degree VII mountaineering difficulty, involving long,
sustained and exposed passages.
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| Guides, Porters and Mountain Personnel |
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All mountain work, whether permanent
or temporary is subject to an official and professional
classification. All mountain personnel must have an
ID card issued by the Ministry of Tourism, the respective
national park (as in the Huascarán National Park)
or the Huaraz Guides’ Association.
Mountain guides: either working in teams or freelancing,
all mountain guides have received certified training.
Experienced and trained to climb the main snow-capped
mountains.
Trekking Guides: Not necessarily trained as mountain
climbers, they are nevertheless familiar with the walking
routes and circuits. They usually travel with large
expeditions organized by tour operators.
Mountain Guide Trainees: After completing their training,
mountain guides go through a year’s trial period
during which they are officially not allowed to guide
certain difficult ascents.
First class porters: They assist mountain climbers wherever
beasts of burden cannot reach. Not allowed to climb
above 6,000 meters. Usually they are fully equipped,
and are capable of overcoming extremely adverse obstacles
and conditions. However, climbers must provide them
with the required high mountain gear.
Second class porters: They assist mountain climbers
and trekkers in areas not accessible to pack animals
but will not go into snow areas.
Mule drivers: In heavy demand among climbers, they own
the beasts and usually live near the most popular mountains
or routes. Mule drivers must be licensed. A community-enforced
rule allows them to work only near their towns. Drivers
must be paid for the time spent returning to their towns
and for their food.
Cooks: Certified cooks are valuable members of any expedition.
Cooking is no simple task above 4,000 meters of altitude.
Generally they assist in buying groceries and many also
have the necessary cooking ware and utensils. Cooks
are also responsible for guarding the camp while travelers
are away.
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